It is better not to prune than to prune badly.
Before you rush into your pruner, read these tips.
Read also :
- Pruning trees and shrubs
- Cloud tree pruning
- Prune roses
- Apple and pear tree pruning
- Hedge pruning, the right period
What is the size for?
It has various objectives: guide growth shrub or tree, give it a harmonious shape, stimulate its flowering and remove diseased or dead branches.
She must also clear the heart of the plant "Bowl-shaped" to improve sunlight and reduce stagnant air which promotes disease development.
Finally, it aims to eliminate too fragile branches that will not support the weight of the snow.
When to prune
It all depends on when the flowering takes place. If the flowers appear in spring, you will have to wait until the end of flowering to prune (otherwise, you will cut the future flowers). However, if they appear later in the summer, you can prune in the fall and even in the spring, because the cut buds will have time to regenerate.
And for trees or shrubs that don't give decorative blooms, you will prune hardwoods in fall or early spring and evergreens in late spring. Of course, that would be too easy if there were no exceptions!
These trees do not need to be pruned: abies (fir), albizia, araucaria, birch, camellia, catalpa, cedar, davidia, spruce, gingko, beech, liquidambar, magnolia, mahonia, walnut, pine, tulip tree…
How to prune?
For a clean cut that heals quickly, hold the pruning shears with the blade on the side of the remaining wood and the counter blade towards the branch to be cut.
Disinfect your cutting tools well between each plant so as not to transmit bacteria or fungal spores. For large branches, use a two-handed branch trimmer.
Finally, apply healing mastic (Norway tar) on the size wounds to close the door to diseases.
Pierrick The Gardener
Visual credits:© Fiskars